Connect the Strips in Parallel, Not End to End

For most constant-voltage wall-panel LED systems, separate vertical strips should be connected in parallel through a splitter or distribution cable.

In a parallel layout, every strip receives the full rated voltage directly from the power source.

For example, in a 24V system:

• Strip 1 receives 24V
• Strip 2 receives 24V
• Strip 3 receives 24V
• Strip 4 receives 24V

The electrical current increases as more strips are added, but the voltage supplied to each strip remains the same.

This is normally what a multi-way LED splitter is designed to do.

What Does “Series Connection” Mean?

A series-style or end-to-end installation sends power through one strip before continuing to the next. This is sometimes possible with products specifically designed for daisy-chaining, but it should not be assumed for wall-panel kits.

Long end-to-end runs can increase voltage drop and make the far end appear weaker. They can also place more current through the first connector and cable than those components were designed to carry.

Unless the product instructions explicitly permit daisy-chaining, use the supplied splitter or the wiring layout confirmed by the manufacturer.

Do Not Connect Two Power-Supply Outputs Together

Connecting several LED strips to one correctly sized power supply is not the same as joining two power supplies together.

Most ordinary LED power supplies are not designed to have their DC outputs connected in parallel. MEAN WELL advises that power supplies without a current-sharing function should not be connected this way. For larger loads, the recommended approaches are usually either a higher-capacity power supply or separate electrically independent zones. See the official MEAN WELL LED power-supply guidance.

How to Calculate the Required Power

The basic calculation is straightforward:

Total strip power = watts per metre × total installed metres

If every strip is the same length:

Total strip power = number of strips × strip length × watts per metre

The power supply must have the correct output voltage and a wattage rating higher than the calculated load.

A Simple Example

Assume the system uses:

• 24V LED strips
• 11W per metre
• Four strips
• Each strip is 2.4 metres long

The calculation is:

4 × 2.4m × 11W/m = 105.6W

The strips would therefore use approximately 105.6W at full output.

Current can then be calculated as:

Current = watts ÷ volts

105.6W ÷ 24V = 4.4A

This means that every part between the power supply and the strips must be suitable for more than 4.4A—not only the power supply.

The example does not automatically approve a particular power supply. Ambient temperature, cable length, startup behaviour, controller capacity and the power supply manufacturer’s instructions must also be checked.

Why the Power Supply Should Not Be Selected at the Exact Calculated Wattage

If the strips require 105.6W, selecting a power supply rated at exactly 105.6W would leave no room for manufacturing tolerance, temperature, cable loss or operating conditions.

As a practical planning rule, many installers allow approximately 20% spare capacity:

Suggested supply wattage = calculated LED load ÷ 0.8

Using the previous example:

105.6W ÷ 0.8 = 132W

A standard power-supply size above this figure could then be considered, subject to the controller, splitter, cable and product specifications.

Example Power Calculations for a 24V Wall-Panel Layout

The following examples use a nominal consumption of 11W/m and strips that are 2.4m long. They demonstrate the calculation method; they do not specify the final power supply for every KingOrnan kit.

The table shows why “How many strips can I connect?” does not have one fixed answer.

Two strips may fit comfortably within a small matched kit. Six or ten long strips may require several independent power zones, heavier distribution wiring or a project-specific system.

The Power Supply Is Only One Limit

A common mistake is to check the power supply rating and ignore everything after it.

A multi-strip system is only as strong as its lowest-rated component.

For example, a 200W power supply does not make the installation safe if the dimmer is rated for only 5A. At 24V, a 5A output represents a maximum theoretical load of:

24V × 5A = 120W

The same check must be made for:

• Dimmer receiver
• RGB or single-colour controller
• Multi-way splitter
• DC connectors
• Extension cables
• Terminal blocks
• Individual output branches

If any component has a lower current rating than the power supply, that component becomes the real limit.

Can a Four-Way Splitter Power Four Strips?

A four-way splitter provides four connection points. It does not automatically confirm that every connected strip can run at any length or wattage.

The splitter tells you how many physical branches are available. Its electrical rating tells you how much current it can safely carry.

• Number of outputs: How many strips can be plugged in?
• Electrical capacity: How much total load can the splitter and its input cable carry?

For example, four short decorative sections may place less load on a splitter than two full-height strips.

KingOrnan’s flush-fit wall-panel kit can include a four-way splitter, matched power supply and dimmer receiver. Use the splitter with the specified kit configuration. Before adding longer strips or combining two kits, ask KingOrnan to verify the total load.

Can Six, Eight or Ten Strips Use One Power Supply?

Technically, a sufficiently designed power system may support six, eight or ten strips. In practice, dividing a large wall into smaller zones is often cleaner and more reliable.

A large installation might be arranged as:

• Left side: one power supply and controller
• Right side: one power supply and controller
• TV section: a separate lighting zone
• Short decorative sections: another output group

Dividing the load can provide several benefits:

• Shorter low-voltage cable runs
• Less voltage drop
• Easier fault finding
• Lower current through each splitter
• More flexible control
• Easier replacement of individual parts

It also avoids making the entire wall dependent on one power supply. If one zone develops a fault, the rest of the lighting can continue to operate.

Can All the Strips Still Use One Remote?

Yes. One remote can often control or synchronize more than one receiver, even when the lighting is divided across several power supplies.

The KingOrnan installation system allows compatible receivers to be paired with the same remote. This makes several independently powered groups respond together while each group keeps its own suitable power supply and splitter.

App-controlled receivers may also be grouped or operated together, depending on the selected control system.

For a large wall, this is often a better solution than forcing every strip through one oversized controller.

What Changes When You Use RGB Strips?

RGB systems require an additional check because their controllers manage several colour channels.

At full white output, the red, green and blue channels may operate together. This can produce a higher load than displaying only one colour.

Check:

• Total controller output current
• Maximum current per colour channel
• Combined current across all channels
• Connector pin arrangement
• Amplifier or repeater requirements
• Compatibility between the strips and controller

A controller advertised as “12A” may, for example, have both a total limit and a lower per-channel limit. Always use the controller’s complete specification rather than relying on the largest number printed on the label.

Single-colour strips are electrically simpler, but their dimmer still needs to carry the combined current of every connected strip.

Why the Last Strip May Look Dimmer

If the total wattage is correct but one strip looks weaker, the problem may be voltage drop rather than insufficient power-supply wattage.

Electrical cable behaves a little like a long, narrow hose. The longer and thinner it becomes—and the more current it carries—the more pressure is lost before reaching the far end.

Common causes include:

• Long extension cables
• Thin cables carrying several strips
• All current passing through one small connector
• A distant splitter position
• Poor or loose connections
• Very long strip runs powered from only one end

Possible solutions include:

• Move the power supply or splitter closer to the wall
• Use suitable cable sizes
• Give long branches their own cable
• Split the installation into smaller zones
• Feed a long strip according to the manufacturer’s wiring plan
• Check connectors for resistance or damage

Signs That the Power Supply May Be Overloaded

An overloaded system does not always fail immediately. It may work during a quick test and become unstable after warming up.

Warning signs include:

• Regular on-off flashing
• Lights switching off at full brightness
• The system works when dimmed but fails at 100%
• The controller or power supply becomes unusually hot
• A high-pitched noise comes from the power supply
• The lights restart repeatedly
• Brightness falls when another strip is connected
• The app or receiver disconnects when the load increases

Some power supplies use “hiccup” overload protection. They repeatedly try to start, detect too much load and shut down again. This can look like a steady flashing pattern. MEAN WELL explains that overload protection may shut down, pulse or reduce the output, depending on the power-supply design. See its overload-protection guidance.

KingOrnan’s installation guide also identifies regular, repeated flashing as a possible sign that too many strips have been connected to the power supply.

A Safe Planning Process

Use this order before installing or cutting the strips.

1. Confirm the voltage. Check the label on the strips, power supply and controller. A 24V strip requires a compatible 24V constant-voltage system. Do not mix 12V and 24V parts.
2. Calculate the total installed length. Use the final length after cutting, not only the original roll or strip length.
3. Calculate the full-load wattage. Multiply total metres by watts per metre. For RGB products, use the maximum full-output figure given by the supplier.
4. Add suitable operating margin. Follow the power-supply manufacturer’s recommendation. A 20% planning allowance is a useful starting point when no stricter requirement applies.
5. Convert watts into current. Use Amps = watts ÷ volts. This allows you to check the controller, splitter, connectors and cables.
6. Check every component. The lowest-rated part sets the system limit.
7. Plan the power location and cable route. Decide whether the wires will exit at the top or bottom of the panels and where the power supply will remain accessible. Do not seal the power supply into an unventilated space or permanently hide it where it cannot be inspected or replaced.
8. Test before cutting and installation. Connect the complete system on a flat surface. Test every strip at full brightness and through the full dimming range.
9. Switch off before changing connections. Never connect, disconnect or cut the strips while the system is powered.
10. Test again after installation. Run the system at full brightness long enough to identify unstable connections, overload cycling or excessive temperature before finishing the cable concealment.

KingOrnan recommends testing the electrical components before cutting or fitting the strips into the panel gaps.

One Power Supply or Several: Which Is Better?

Neither approach is automatically better. The best arrangement depends on the wall width, number of strips, cable route and control plan.

For a two- or four-strip retail kit, a single matched power system is usually the simplest solution. For six to ten full-height strips across a large feature wall, separate synchronized zones may be more practical.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Counting strips without calculating their length

Four 30cm sections do not use the same power as four 3m strips.

Assuming every four-way splitter supports four full-length strips

The connector count does not replace a current calculation.

Upgrading the power supply but keeping an undersized controller

Every component must support the new total load.

Mixing voltage types

A 12V strip and 24V power supply are not a compatible pair.

Daisy-chaining long vertical strips without approval

This can produce uneven brightness and overloaded connections.

Hiding the power supply without ventilation or access

Power supplies generate heat and may eventually need inspection or replacement.

Cutting before testing

Once the strip has been altered, returning it or identifying the original fault becomes more difficult. Test every component first.

Connecting low-voltage strips directly to mains power

Low-voltage LED strips must use their specified power supply. KingOrnan’s installation advice warns against connecting 12V or 24V strips directly to AC mains.

Related reading: LED strip installation precautions for safe handling, cutting and connection practices.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Answer

Yes, multiple wall panel LED strips can share one power supply.

The safe decision is made by matching the voltage, calculating the total full-load wattage and current, allowing appropriate operating headroom, and checking the controller, splitter, connectors and cables—not by counting unused splitter sockets.

Use parallel distribution for compatible strips, keep ordinary power-supply outputs electrically separate unless the equipment is designed for current sharing, and divide wide or high-load walls into synchronized zones when that reduces current and voltage drop.